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How To Calculate Macros

Macro Calculator
A Handy How Tos Tool

Macro Calculator

Calculate your optimal macronutrient intake based on your body metrics and goals

What Are Macros (and Fiber)?

Macronutrients, or “macros,” are the three main nutrients your body needs in large amounts to function: Protein, Carbohydrates, and Fats.

  • Protein: Essential for building and repairing tissues (like muscles), producing enzymes and hormones, and supporting immune function.
  • Carbohydrates: Your body’s primary source of energy for daily activities, brain function, and exercise.
  • Fats: Important for hormone production, vitamin absorption (A, D, E, K), cell structure, and providing concentrated energy.
  • Fiber: While technically a type of carbohydrate, fiber plays a unique and crucial role. It aids in digestion, helps regulate blood sugar levels, promotes fullness, and supports gut health. Good sources include fruits, vegetables, whole grains, nuts, and legumes.

Understanding your macro intake, along with ensuring adequate fiber, can help you achieve specific health and fitness goals, whether it’s weight loss, muscle gain, or maintaining a healthy lifestyle.

To calculate your macros, I need information about your body metrics and activity level. Fill out the form below to get personalized recommendations.

How To Fix A Leaky Faucet

Leaky Faucet Fixer Toolkit

Leaky Faucet Fixer Toolkit

Welcome to the Leaky Faucet Fixer!

This toolkit will guide you through identifying your faucet type, diagnosing the leak, and fixing it. Select an option from the navigation above or start with faucet identification below.

1. Identify Your Faucet Type

2. Diagnose the Leak

First, ensure your faucet type is identified. If not, please go back to the “Identify Your Faucet” section.

3. Tools & Parts Checklist

Based on your faucet type (N/A) and potential issue (N/A), here’s what you might need:

Common Tools:

Specific Replacement Parts:

Please select your faucet type and diagnose the leak to see specific parts.

Critical Reminder:

Always aim for exact replacement parts. Take the old part to a hardware store or note down the faucet manufacturer and model number. Using incorrect parts can lead to further leaks or damage.

4. Step-by-Step Repair Guides

Your Faucet Type: N/A

Diagnosed Issue: N/A

Identify your faucet type and diagnose the leak first to view specific repair steps.

5. When to Call a Plumber

DIY faucet repair can be rewarding, but sometimes it’s best to call a professional. Consider calling a plumber if you encounter any of the following:

  • Persistent leaks after multiple DIY attempts.
  • You’re uncertain or uncomfortable with any part of the repair process.
  • Significant corrosion or visible damage to the faucet body or pipes.
  • Parts are broken, seized, or stripped, and you can’t remove them without force.
  • You need specialized tools that you don’t have and aren’t cost-effective to buy for a one-time job.
  • You suspect larger plumbing issues, such as unusually high water pressure or problems with the water lines.
  • The faucet is very old, has had multiple previous repairs, or parts are obsolete and hard to find.
  • The leak is causing water damage to surrounding areas (e.g., cabinetry, floor).
  • You’ve shut off the water supply, but water is still trickling through the shut-off valves (this indicates valve failure, a separate issue).

A licensed plumber has the experience, tools, and knowledge to diagnose complex issues and ensure repairs are done correctly and safely, potentially saving you time and money in the long run.

6. Faucet Care and Maintenance Tips

A little care can go a long way in extending the life of your faucets and preventing leaks:

  • Avoid Overtightening Handles: Especially on compression faucets, overtightening wears out washers and valve seats faster. Turn handles just enough to stop the water flow.
  • Clean Aerators Regularly: Faucet aerators (the small screen at the tip of the spout) can become clogged with mineral deposits and sediment. Unscrew and clean them every few months by rinsing or soaking in vinegar to maintain good water flow and pressure.
  • Address Small Drips Promptly: A small drip can waste a lot of water over time and often indicates a minor issue that’s easier to fix when caught early.
  • Gentle Cleaning: Use mild cleaners and soft cloths to clean faucet finishes. Abrasive cleaners or scouring pads can damage the finish.
  • Check for Leaks Periodically: Occasionally inspect under sinks and around faucet bases for any signs of moisture or slow leaks.
  • Know Your Water Hardness: Hard water can lead to faster mineral buildup. If you have very hard water, consider a water softener or more frequent cleaning of internal faucet parts.
  • Winterizing (if applicable): For outdoor faucets or faucets in unheated areas, ensure they are properly winterized to prevent freezing and bursting.

Taking photos as you disassemble a faucet can be a very helpful reference when it’s time to put it back together!

7. Glossary of Common Terms

© HandyHowTos.com Leaky Faucet Toolkit. All rights reserved.

Disclaimer: Repairs are undertaken at your own risk. If unsure, consult a professional plumber.

How To Soundproof A Room

Soundproofing Basics & Assessment Checklist

Soundproofing Basics & Assessment Checklist

Your first step to a quieter home.

Step 1: Interactive Noise Assessment

Let’s understand the noise you’re dealing with. Answering these questions will help identify the best starting points.

Airborne: Sound traveling through air (e.g., speech, TV, music). Structure-Borne/Impact: Sound traveling through building materials (e.g., footsteps, vibrations, door slams).

Low-frequency noise is often harder to block and may require more specialized solutions.

© handyhowtos.com – Soundproofing Tool. For informational purposes only.

Assumable Loan Calculator

Handy How Tos – Assumable vs Traditional Loan Calculator

Handy How Tos
Assumable vs Traditional Loan Calculator

Compare your potential monthly payments and upfront costs.

What is an Assumable Mortgage? i An assumable mortgage lets a buyer take over the seller’s existing loan terms, including interest rate and balance. This is often beneficial if the existing loan’s rate is lower than current market rates.

An assumable mortgage allows a homebuyer to take over the seller’s existing home loan, including its current interest rate, repayment period, and outstanding balance. This can be particularly beneficial when current market interest rates are higher than the rate on the existing loan.

Loan Details

Property & Common Details

Traditional Loan Scenario

% of Home Price
or
Dollar Amount ($)
Years
or
Months

Assumable Loan Scenario

Years
or
Months

Important Considerations for Assumable Loans:

  • Loan Type Matters: The original type of loan being assumed is crucial. Government-backed loans like FHA, VA, and USDA loans are generally assumable if certain conditions are met. Conventional mortgages (those not backed by the government) are rarely assumable, often containing a “due-on-sale” clause that requires the loan to be paid off when the home is sold. Always verify the specific loan documents.
  • Lender Approval: The buyer must still qualify with the lender and meet their creditworthiness standards to assume the loan.
  • Equity Payment: The buyer usually needs to pay the seller the difference between the home’s agreed purchase price and the remaining loan balance. This can be a significant upfront cash payment.
  • Second Mortgage: If the equity payment is large, some buyers might explore a second mortgage to cover it, which would add another payment and its own interest costs (not covered by this calculator).
  • Closing Costs: Assumption closing costs are generally lower than those for a new loan, but they still exist (e.g., assumption fees, title, escrow).
  • Interest Rate Benefit & Refinance Comparison: The primary advantage of an assumable loan is securing a loan at a potentially much lower interest rate than current market rates, leading to lower monthly payments. This benefit is conceptually similar to why homeowners choose to refinance their existing mortgages—to obtain a better rate and lower payments.

Disclaimer: This calculator provides an estimate for informational purposes only and does not constitute financial advice. Consult with a financial advisor and mortgage professional for personalized guidance.

How To Build A Raised Garden Bed

Raised Garden Bed Builder Guide – PNG Save

Raised Garden Bed Guide

Plan, Build, and Grow with Confidence!

Why Choose a Raised Garden Bed?

Raised garden beds offer numerous advantages for gardeners of all levels:

  • Improved Drainage: Excess water drains away more effectively, preventing waterlogged roots, especially in areas with clay soil.
  • Better Soil Quality Control: You can fill your beds with the perfect soil mix for your chosen plants, regardless of your native soil quality.
  • Reduced Weeding: Densely planted raised beds with clear boundaries can significantly reduce weed encroachment.
  • Accessibility: Higher beds mean less bending and stooping, making gardening more comfortable.
  • Warmer Soil Earlier: Soil in raised beds tends to warm up faster in the spring, allowing for an earlier start.
  • Pest & Critter Deterrent: Offers some protection against slugs, snails, and small animals like rabbits.
  • Defined Garden Space: Creates neat, organized, and attractive garden areas.
  • No Soil Compaction: Soil remains loose and airy as you don’t walk on the growing area.

Planning Your Raised Garden Bed

Careful planning is key to a successful raised garden bed project. Consider these factors:

1. Location, Location, Location!

  • Sunlight: Most vegetables need 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Observe your yard.
  • Water Access: Ensure proximity to a water source for convenience.
  • Level Ground: Choose a relatively level spot. Minor slopes can be managed.
  • Accessibility: Ensure you can easily reach all sides of the bed.

2. Size and Dimensions

Visual: Basic Bed Dimensions

Length (ft) Width (ft) Height (in)

Illustrates the key dimensions of a raised bed.

  • Width: Max 4 feet recommended for easy reach.
  • Length: As desired, often based on lumber lengths (e.g., 8ft, 10ft, 12ft).
  • Depth (Height):
    • 6-8 inches: For shallow-rooted plants (lettuce, herbs).
    • 10-12 inches: Ideal for most vegetables (tomatoes, carrots). Common choice.
    • 18-24+ inches: For deep roots (potatoes), poor underlying soil, or better accessibility.

3. Drainage Considerations

Good drainage is crucial. How you ensure it depends on the base:

  • Beds on Soil: Water usually drains naturally. Loosen the native soil underneath before placing the bed. Adding gravel at the bottom is often unnecessary on soil and can sometimes hinder drainage.
  • Beds on Concrete/Impermeable Surfaces: Must have drainage holes/gaps at the bottom.
    1. Line drainage holes inside with permeable landscape fabric to prevent soil loss.
    2. Optionally, add a 1-2 inch layer of coarse gravel/pebbles over the fabric/holes to create a drainage void.
    3. Fill with your soil mix.
    The goal is always to let excess water escape freely.

Choosing Your Materials

Various materials can be used, each with pros and cons:

1. Wood

  • Naturally Rot-Resistant: Cedar, Redwood, Larch, Black Locust (Last 10-20 yrs, more expensive).
  • Untreated Pine/Fir/Spruce: Less expensive, rots faster (3-7 yrs). Use thicker boards (2-inch nominal) or treat with non-toxic preservativesLook for linseed oil, tung oil, or silicon-based sealers. Check labels for food safety if growing edibles. or charring (Shou Sugi Ban).
  • Treated Lumber:
    • Avoid Old CCA: Wood treated before ~2003 contains arsenic. Not recommended for edible gardens.
    • Modern ACQ, MCA, etc.: Generally considered much safer (copper-based). Minimal leaching. For extra caution (especially organic): line inside with food-grade plastic/fabric or maintain a soil buffer.

2. Metal

  • Galvanized Steel (Stock Tanks, Corrugated Sheets): Durable, modern look. Can get hot; consider wider beds or partial shade. Ensure food-safe coatings.

3. Concrete Blocks / Cinder Blocks

  • Pros: Durable, affordable, easy assembly.
  • Cons: Can leach lime (raises soil pH – mitigate by sealing/lining). Older cinder blocks might contain fly ash; prefer solid concrete blocks. Retain heat.

4. Composite / Recycled Plastic Lumber

  • Pros: Very durable, rot/insect-proof, low maintenance, often recycled.
  • Cons: Can be expensive. Ensure UV-stabilized and certified non-toxic/food-safe.

5. Natural Stone / Brick

  • Pros: Highly durable, attractive natural look.
  • Cons: Can be expensive and labor-intensive. Mortared beds are permanent; dry-stacked offer flexibility.

Tools & Supplies Checklist

Essential Tools:

  • Tape Measure
  • Level (2ft or 4ft)
  • Drill & Bits
  • Saw (Hand, Circular, or Miter)
  • Safety Glasses
  • Work Gloves
  • Shovel / Spade
  • Carpenter’s Square
  • Pencil / Marker
  • Wheelbarrow

Materials (Varies by Design):

  • Bed Frame Material
  • Exterior Screws/Bolts
  • Corner Posts / Brackets
  • Landscape Fabric (Optional)
  • Cardboard/Newspaper (Optional)
  • Soil Components

Step-by-Step Construction (Simple Wooden Bed)

Building a basic rectangular wooden bed with butt joints and interior corner posts.

1. Site Preparation

  • Clear Area: Remove grass, weeds, rocks.
  • Level Ground: Use shovel/rake and level. Adjust for minor slopes.
  • (Optional) Weed Barrier: Lay cardboard/newspaper on ground under bed area (wet down). Avoid landscape fabric *under* bed on soil.

2. Cut Lumber

Example: 8ft L x 4ft W x 11in H bed using two layers of 2×6 boards (actual 1.5″ thick x 5.5″ wide).

  • Side Boards: Cut long/short pieces. Remember short sides fit *inside* long sides (width – 2x board thickness). Ex: Four 8ft long 2x6s; Four ~3ft 9in short 2x6s (48″ – 2*1.5″ = 45″).
  • Corner Posts: Cut four 4x4s to desired bed height. Ex: Four 11in high 4x4s (matches two 5.5″ boards).

3. Assemble First Layer

Visual: Corner Assembly (Top-Down View)

Long Side
Short Side
Post

Illustrates a butt joint with an interior corner post. Screws go through side boards into the post.

  • Position one long and one short board in an “L” (short board inside).
  • Place corner post in the inside corner.
  • Drill pilot holes through side boards into post.
  • Secure boards to post with 2-3 exterior-grade screws (e.g., 2.5-3 inch).
  • Repeat for all corners, forming a rectangle. Use square to check 90° angles.
  • Check level; shim or dig out as needed.

4. Add Subsequent Layers

  • Place next layer on top, staggering joints if possible.
  • Screw boards into corner posts (and optionally into boards below).
  • Continue to desired height.

5. (Optional) Lining the Bed

  • If needed (e.g., treated wood concerns), cut permeable landscape fabric for inside walls.
  • Staple to top inside edge. Don’t line bottom on soil. Ensure drainage holes are clear if on concrete.
  • Avoid impermeable plastic on bottom. Use food-grade plastic on sides if necessary.

6. (Optional) Top Cap/Trim

Add wider boards (e.g., 2x6s) flat on top edges for a finished look/seat. Miter corners.

7. Final Checks

  • Ensure bed is sturdy, level, and in final position before filling.

The Perfect Soil for Your Raised Bed

Soil quality is paramount. Raised bed mix should be light, airy, drain well, and rich in organic matter.

Visual: Example Soil Layers in a Bed

Soil Mix (Top)
Compost
Cardboard/Gravel (Bottom)

Illustrates one way to layer materials in a raised bed (optional bottom layer).

DIY Soil Mixes (Common Recipes by Volume):

  • Classic Mix: 1/3 high-quality compost + 1/3 peat moss/coco coirSustainable peat alternative from coconut husks. Aids water retention & aeration. Rinse if high in salts. + 1/3 coarse vermiculite/perlite.
  • Topsoil-Based Mix: 50-60% quality screened topsoil + 40-50% compost + (Optional) small amount perlite/coarse sand if topsoil is heavy.

Mix thoroughly. Consider adding balanced organic fertilizer.

Store-Bought Mixes

Convenient “raised bed soil” or “garden soil” bags. Can be more expensive. Look for high organic matter content.

Filling Techniques for Deep Beds (18″+):

  • Hugelkultur (Modified): Place logs, branches at bottom. Layer leaves, grass clippings, compost, then top soil mix. Saves soil, adds nutrients slowly.
  • Layering Organics: Alternate layers of “browns” (straw, leaves) and “greens” (grass clippings – thin layers), compost, topped with main soil mix.

Fill in layers, lightly watering each. Don’t compact. Fill to 1-2 inches from top for watering/mulching.

Planting Plans & Companion Planting

Thoughtful planting maximizes yield and reduces pests. Consider plant size, sun needs, and interactions.

Example Planting Plan: 4ft x 8ft Veggie & Herb Bed

Adjust based on your climate. Taller plants often go on the “North” side (in Northern Hemisphere) to avoid shading smaller ones.

Visual: 4x8ft Raised Bed Planting Plan Example

Tomatoes (staked)
Peppers
Lettuce
Spinach
Carrots
Radishes
Basil
Basil
Marigolds
Marigolds
Chives
Parsley
Marigolds
Marigolds
Bush Beans
Bush Beans
More Lettuce
More Radishes

Example only. Ensure proper spacing and air circulation. Consider Square Foot Gardening methods.

Companion Planting Principles

  • Diversity: Mix plants for a healthier ecosystem.
  • Attract Beneficials: Use dill, fennel, yarrow to attract ladybugs, lacewings.
  • Deter Pests: Aromatic herbs (basil, mint) and flowers (marigolds, nasturtiums) can confuse pests.
  • Improve Soil: Legumes (beans, peas) fix nitrogen.
  • Shade & Support: Taller plants can shade cool-season crops; sturdy ones offer support (trellises often better).

Popular Companions:

  • Tomatoes: Basil, Carrots, Chives, Marigolds, Onions, Parsley.
  • Peppers: Basil, Carrots, Onions, Spinach.
  • Beans: Carrots, Corn, Cucumbers, Marigolds, Potatoes, Strawberries. (Avoid Onions/Garlic).
  • Carrots: Beans, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Radishes, Rosemary, Tomatoes.
  • Lettuce: Carrots, Cucumbers, Radishes, Strawberries.
  • Cucumbers: Beans, Corn, Dill, Lettuce, Marigolds, Peas, Radishes. (Avoid Sage).
  • Onions/Garlic: Beets, Brassicas, Carrots, Lettuce, Strawberries, Tomatoes. (Avoid Beans/Peas).

Plants to Keep Apart (Antagonistic):

  • Beans & Onions/Garlic/Chives.
  • Fennel & Most plants (esp. Tomatoes, Beans).
  • Potatoes & Tomatoes/Cucumbers/Squash (share pests/diseases).
  • Brassicas & Strawberries/Tomatoes.

Crop Rotation Visualizer

Plan your crop rotation over multiple seasons to improve soil health and reduce pests/diseases. Divide your bed into logical sections for rotation.

Enter the number of seasons and sections, then click “Generate Plan”.

Basic Rotation Principles:

  • Group by Family: Rotate crops based on their plant family.
  • Avoid Repeats: Don’t plant the same family in the same section for at least 3-4 years if possible. This is a key conflict the tool checks.
  • Heavy Feeders: Crops like Brassicas, Solanaceae (Tomatoes, Peppers), Cucurbits (Squash) use many nutrients.
    • Follow with Light Feeders or Soil Builders.
    • Avoid planting heavy feeders after other heavy feeders in the same spot.
  • Light Feeders: Crops like Alliums (Onions, Garlic), most Leafy Greens (Lettuce).
  • Soil Builders (Fixers): Legumes (Beans, Peas) add nitrogen to the soil. Excellent before heavy-feeding Leafy Greens or Fruiting crops.
  • Root Crops: Can help break up soil. Vary root depths.
  • Cover Crops/Fallow: Use “Other/Fallow” to rest soil or plant cover crops.

The tool will highlight direct family conflicts (same family, same section, consecutive years) with a red border. Other suggestions and warnings will appear in the feedback area above.

Efficient Watering Systems

Raised beds dry out faster. Efficient watering is key. Options include:

1. Soaker Hoses

Porous hoses seep water slowly along their length.

  • Pros: Water-conserving, reduces leaf wetness (less disease), easy install, affordable.
  • Cons: Uneven on slopes, potential clogging, less durable than drip, less precise.
  • Setup: Lay hose near root zones, cover with mulch, use low pressure, water deeply less often.

2. Drip Irrigation

Network of tubes and emitters deliver water precisely.

  • Pros: Highly efficient, precise, reduces weeds, adaptable, easily automated.
  • Cons: Higher initial cost, more complex setup, potential emitter clogging.
  • Setup: Plan layout, assemble components (backflow preventer, filter, regulator, tubing, emitters, connectors), connect to water, lay tubing, install emitters, test.

3. Ollas (Clay Pots)

Unglazed terracotta pots buried in soil seep water slowly.

  • Pros: Extremely efficient, promotes deep roots, simple/low-tech, reduces surface weeds, long-lasting.
  • Cons: Manual refilling needed, limited watering radius (need multiple), fragile (freezing risk), higher cost per point.
  • Setup: Bury olla with neck exposed, plant around it, fill with water, cover opening, refill as needed. Remove in winter in freezing climates.

General Watering Tips:

  • Water deeply, less frequently.
  • Water in the morning.
  • Check soil moisture by hand before watering.
  • Use 2-3 inches of organic mulch.

Helpful Calculators

Estimate material needs and costs. Run Soil/Lumber calculators first for Cost Estimator. Buy 5-10% extra.

1. Soil Volume Calculator

Calculate how much soil mix you’ll need.

2. Basic Lumber Calculator

Estimate lumber for a rectangular bed (butt joints).

3. Cost Estimation & Printable Summary

Enter local prices to estimate costs. Then, generate a printable summary/shopping list.

Additional Costs:

Planting Tips for Your New Bed

Once built and filled, it’s time to plant! See “Planting Plans” for detailed layouts.

  • Choose Plants: Select for your climate, sun, and bed depth.
  • Spacing: Follow guidelines. Can plant slightly denser in raised beds, but ensure air circulation.
  • Watering: Water thoroughly after planting. Monitor moisture; raised beds dry faster. Water deeply, less often.
  • Mulching: Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch (straw, leaves, wood chips) away from stems.
  • Fertilizing: Amend as needed based on plant needs and soil fertility, using organic options.

Troubleshooting Guide

Common issues and solutions for raised garden beds:

1. Soil Compaction Over Time

  • Symptoms: Slow drainage, pooling water, stunted growth, hard soil.
  • Solutions: Annual aeration (gentle fork loosening), add compost/organic matter yearly, cover cropping, mulching, avoid stepping in bed.

2. Pest Issues

  • Slugs/Snails: Handpick, beer traps, copper tape barriers, diatomaceous earth.
  • Ants: Tolerate if harmless. Deter with cinnamon/diatomaceous earth, boiling water on nests (carefully).
  • Aphids/Whiteflies/Mites: Strong water spray, beneficial insects (ladybugs), insecticidal soap/neem oil (follow labels).
  • Root/Vine Weevils: Beneficial nematodes, physical barriers, good drainage.
  • Rodents (Mice/Voles): Hardware cloth lining (during construction), clear debris, traps, deterrent plants.
  • Prevention: Healthy soil, crop rotation, companion planting, regular inspection, clean up debris.

3. Drainage Problems

  • Symptoms: Standing water, soggy soil, yellowing/wilting plants, foul smell, root rot.
  • Causes & Solutions:
    • Poor Soil Mix: Amend with compost, perlite, coco coir.
    • Compacted Soil: Aerate and add organic matter.
    • Impermeable Layer Below: Loosen native soil first. On hardscapes, ensure drainage holes/gaps, consider gravel layer carefully.
    • Impermeable Lining: Use permeable fabric or ensure plastic has drainage holes (avoid lining bottom on soil).
    • Overwatering: Water less often, check moisture first.
    • Clogged Holes (Hardscapes): Clear holes, elevate bed slightly.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How deep does my raised bed need to be?
6-8″ for greens/herbs; 10-12″ for most veggies; 18″+ for deep roots or on concrete.
Safest wood for edible gardens?
Untreated Cedar, Redwood, Larch. Modern treated wood (ACQ/MCA) is generally safe, but lining offers extra peace of mind.
Do I need to line my bed?
Not always. Needed for treated wood concerns, moisture retention in dry climates, or blocking invasive roots. Use permeable fabric. Don’t line bottom on soil.
How to prevent weeds?
Use weed-free soil, cardboard layer at bottom, plant densely, mulch thickly, pull weeds early.
Can I put a bed on concrete?
Yes! Ensure 12″+ depth, adequate drainage holes/gaps. Consider elevating slightly or adding a bottom gravel layer.
How long does a wooden bed last?
Untreated pine/fir: 3-7 yrs. Cedar/Redwood/treated: 10-20+ yrs. Thicker wood lasts longer.

© Handy How Tos. Happy Gardening!

Disclaimer: General info only. Follow safety precautions. Adapt plans to your site. Costs are estimates.

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